Nisanyan Hotel

A unique hotel near Ephesus, Turkey

Nisanyan House is considered one of Turkey’s finest hotels, yet it is a simple and friendly sort of place. It offers you beauty and peace, even a certain degree of elegance. The grounds are extensive, but they make you feel you own the place by yourself. Set in a remote rural village, it is only ten minutes from Ephesus, one of Turkey’s top tourist destinations. It probably serves the best food within 100 miles, though you’d think it is mom and pop cooking. It has the most intricately detailed decor of any hotel in the country, yet it all feels perfectly spontaneous and casual.

Visitors often find themselves at a loss for words when describing the experience. They say things like “this is a place of spiritual awakening,” or “please, please, can we stay here forever!”

The establishment grew over the years with no discernible plan or logic. There were three historic village houses to start with. To them were added two elegant inns, a half dozen rustic cottages, some simple guestrooms, a vast and complicated garden, a defense tower, an aviary, a library and much else besides. No two units are quite alike. Each reflects the inspiration of the moment and the whimsy of experimentation.

The host is Sevan Nişanyan, a writer of Armenian origin. He is known to the Turkish public as a lexicologist, a political commentator, a travel writer, a human rights activist and several other things besides. He lives on the premises and runs the show in hands-on fashion.

The hotel is open year round, although some units may be closed in winter. All reasonable comforts (central heating, some airconditioned rooms, internet, hairdryers, airport pickup, etc.) are of course taken care of.

The Inn: Comfortable Country House

The Inn is the nearest thing we have to a regular hotel, though it feels more like a comfortable country house. No two rooms are quite the same. The furniture does not repeat itself. There are no “rules” beyond what any civilized person can figure out. There are lots of comfortable nooks and crannies. There are always some cookies stashed away in the cupboard. No one bothers to lock the office. Guests are welcome to roam into the kitchen.

The main reception office is located at the Inn. So is the restaurant and the Turkish bath. There is a very homey library where some guests like to spend the whole day. The communal iPod contains a zillion hours of good music, mostly Bach and Haydn. No television is allowed on the premises.

The Inn stands on top of Sirince on the edge of the bush. It has a fabulous view over the village rooftops and across the olive groves of the valley.

Rooms

There are five guest rooms. Room 1 is one of our best units. It is large, has a canopied bed and an antique stand-alone bath, and commands a spectacular view. Room 2 has Roman wallpaintings done by a brilliant artist. Room 3 has two single beds and some unforgettable portraits. Room 4 is quite small but commands the same great view as number 1. Room 5 is also small, but it is next to the library and the lounge, so at night you can have both of them wholly to yourself.